Within the series of long rail videos that were published in the summer of 2020 a number of special features were included, and I make no excuse for wanting to including these in a separate post (to be published in due course) because people may have easily missed out on those details! Not only that, as people will see, there’s a bit extra to each of these feature snippets. However in the process I decided the fantastic White Pass & Yukon Railway – which passes through mountainous territory in both Alaska and Canada – merited a page of its own along with some historic photos to complement this special feature.
This three foot gauge line actually runs through Canada for most of its distance but since it begins in Alaska where it has its administrative headquarters and depots, technically its a US railroad. The first part of the railway between Skagway and Carcross in Canada is open. The remainder of the line to the heart of the Yukon where the famous Klondike gold rushes took place (and the original reason for building the line) is currently not in use.
First ever train up the long incline to the summit. This is about two thirds of the way up the Glacier loop. 20th February 1899. Source: Washington State Historical Society
The railway was built for the gold rush which was short lived anyway so the new railway had to find a different means for its existence. Freight proved to be an essential lifeline for most of its life and for many years road trains were too a feature because the roads between Skagway and Whitehorse were previously dirt track and quite perilous. The re-building and upgrading of these roads saw the end of these road trains and then the closure of several zinc and lead mines in the Whitehorse area meant the line’s freight traffic dwindled and forced it to close down in 1982. With tourism on the rise however, good fortune saw the railway reopened in 1988 and its a popular destination these days.
Engine no.73 tackling the steep grade as it passes over the trestle leading to the first tunnel, sixteen miles from Skagway. Source: White Pass & Yukon
The line climbs nearly three thousand feet in just twenty miles to the summit of the White Pass, which is where the US/Canada border is. After this point the elevations are rather more gentle for the remainder of the route to Carcross and Whitehorse, the line’s former northern terminus. The scenery is stupendous as far as Carcross and that alone guarantees patronage this far up the line – 67 miles in total. The section northward to Whitehorse isn’t as stupendous, though there are spectacular lengths too, which means there would have to be some outstanding economic case in order to reopen 43 miles of disused railway north of Carcross.
The White Pass summit in April 1899. The railway had been open just two months when this picture was taken. Source: White Pass & Yukon Photos
Dedicating the US flag at the White Pass summit. Probably 1899/1900. Source: Washington State Historical Society
The Queen and Prince Philip rode the White Pass & Yukon on an official visit to Canada in 1959. Source: Twitter
There’s a short clip of the Royals riding the Yukon train from Whitehorse station in this You Tube video.
The Queen and Prince Philip after their ride on the Yukon train. Source: Insider
Prince William and the Duchess also rode a White Pass steam train at Carcross in September 2016. Source: Daily Mail
The scenery along the route is absolutely fantastic – as can be seen on this You Tube video. There’s a number of other videos too (not driver’s eye though) however I recommend this other one showing one of the steam locomotives tacking the line’s stiff grades. The first part of the journey as far as Bennett is mostly along the wide turquoise coloured lake that is known as Lake Bennett and its great scenery all the way!
No shit! Google Streets actually captured the steam train making its way up the White Pass! Relax… its actually the smoke form the building’s chimney – but what a lovely thought!
Here’s a rarity for the White Pass & Yukon in terms of Google Streets. Its a train making its way though the mists just south of the White pass summit. Source: Google Streets
The route is almost what one could describe as quite considerably the North American version of the Nariz del Diablo. There isn’t a series of reversing inclines however but the scenery and the stupendous drops down towards the streams at the bottom of the steep sided gulches are amazing! The views from the upper sections of the line towards Skagway several thousand feet below in the valley are simply stupendous as the image below shows.
The railway near Inspiration Point with its lower level and Skagway Fjord/the Lynn Canal in the distance. The line’s elevation at this point is over 2500 feet. Source: White Pass & Yukon.
Gosh! The mountain on the left’s similar in shape to the Nariz del Diablo one! Source: You Tube
At one location – Inspiration Point – the railway can be seen a long way down on the other side of the valley – it forms a very long loop – necessary to gain the height difference required to climb up to the White Pass itself. Its an impressive climb and I have tried to show how it looks via Google Streets – but its not quite as impressive as actually viewing the route from the train itself – and that is probably because this is the nearest point one can get to the White Pass route. The route of the line continues to unveil itself in dramatic form as the train descends towards Skagway.
View of the Yukon line as seen from Alaska Route 98. This is where it ascends the White Pass. I marked the route in blue as didn’t want to spoil the scenery too much! Source: Google Streets.
The railway’s website has some impressive images of the line and I make no excuse for having included their main image on this page as the feature image to this page too! Its a fantastic view and shows the line on its upper levels with the lower section clearly seen further down.
As the White Pass website says, the main guy whose company built the railway in the late 19th Century said ‘Give me enough dynamite and snoose, and I’ll build you a railroad to hell.’ That is what is most admirable about railways. Despite their obvious limitations they can – with sufficient vision and determination – be built through some of the world’s most difficult and inhospitable terrain!
The closed station at Pennington on the shores of Lake Bennett en route to Carcross. Source: Twitter
The railway currently does not go beyond Carcross. Its not quite so scenically spectacular but still exists in a derelict state for the remainder of the route to Whitehorse, the city of the Yukon. Ironically the railway through Whitehorse itself was restored and used for a number of years as a tourist tram route. There were also plans to extend the route southwards from the city and have it as a heritage railway. In 2018 the Yukon Government ceased financial support for this and the tourist tramway closed. Since then parts of the railway’s route through Whitehorse have been lifted and filled in because the tracks were deemed too dangerous to leave in an unmaintained condition.
Alco diesel heading out of Fraser with a train for Bennett and Carcross. Source: Skagway
As as been mentioned, the White Pass & Yukon still has aspirations of extending its line back to Whitehorse. Its just a question of time and money and whether the custom would be sufficient to support this reopened section. The 43 miles of railway between Carcross and Whitehorse is largely in situ. However its not just a case of it waiting to be cleared of undergrowth, re-levelled, fresh ballast laid where necessary, and then be ready to use again. The railway company says a good bit of the track would need to be replaced and the trestles en route would need total rebuilding as no maintenance work has been done since 1982. Not only that there are at least five locations where the formation has been completely washed away. Its a big job if any restoration to Whitehorse does become desired.
During the first half of 2020 there’s been the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdowns the world over – and this has affected the railway’s fortunes. The numerous cruise ships that normally visit Skagway are fully laid up with no prospect of being used again before 2021. The town’s hotels and businesses are having a difficult time and of course the White Pass & Yukon has had to scale back most of its operations – the line has been nigh on being fully suspended until 2021 because the entire Alaska cruise season has been cancelled.
Currently its running a very limited number of excursions from Skagway to the White Pass summit until October 21st. The longer trips beyond the White Pass summit to Fraser, Bennett and Carcross wont see any renewed traffic until sometime in 2021. Its a difficult time for the White Pass and Yukon as an enormous amount of money has been expidited in buying a fleet of four new high powered locomotives to supplement the route’s ageing diesel locomotives.
One of the new locomotives at Skagway in June 2020. Source: Twitter
The first two of the new locomotives are in traditional White Pass colours, however the third and fourth locomotives feature a new look black livery with a thick red/white band along their sides.
Note: Many sources describe the line as a railroad however the company calls itself the White Pass & Yukon Railway – which is why I have followed suit.